Simple DC to AC Inverter

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This DC to AC inverter circuit work based on unstable multi vibrator does. In this circuit, IC CD4047 is chosen as a heart of unstable multi vibrator, because this IC type gives a complementary output that has opposite phase to another ( pin 10 and 11 as seen in Figure 1), and has 50 % duty cycle that satisfy to generate a pulse for inverter.

In order to increase the current out of multi

vibrator so enough to generate a higher AC power too, then we must use MOSFET IRFZ44. IRFZ44 gives out high current to drive a step-up transformer, so AC power is available at the high voltage side of transformer.

This circuit is called as simple DC to AC inverter because of the output haven't a sinusoidal signal

yet, so there are many harmonic signal at the output. To suppress this signal we must use a filter such as a capacitor C. Because of this simplicity this circuit is suitable only for lighting demand. To build a sinusoidal DC to AC inverter, we can use a PWM signal for driving a step-up transformer, such as at page of DC to AC inverter using AT89C2051.

Off Line-UPS Offers (100 -5000 Watts)

With increased dependency on electric power for various domestic, commercial purposes and the seemingly declining capacity of power utilities in many countries, the need for additional backup power sources is on the rise. Various modules are already available to address these different needs. However, most modules are too expensive, too bulky, or too rigid in their power capacity, capability, and flexibility.

The circuit described here is an off-line uninterruptible power supply. It has an expandable power stage design that can be easily modified for use with power ranges from as low as 100 W to as high as 5000 W with forced cooling.

The design is based on the LM3524D, a popular industrial-grade, pulse-width-modulation (PWM) controller. This device is fully self-contained and has all of the necessary logic built-in to ensure a compact and cost-effective product. The controller offers:

• Complementary power drive output stage with 180° out-of-phase switching.
• Stable oscillator with shutdown capability and noise suppression.
• Current-sense and voltage-sense circuitry.
• Dead time between the two complementary switching stages to prevent cross conduction and subsequent core saturation.
• Low voltage cutoff.

The on-chip oscillator frequency is controlled by the RC pair R2 and C1, and the required frequency is calculated as f_OSC = 1/(R2 × C1). Depending on the country, f_OSC = 50 Hz or 60 Hz. The low-power drive stage, containing transistors Q1 and Q2, is driven by the outputs at pin 12 and 13 of the controller; out-of-phase switching is handled by its own internal logic.

The final switching stage is comprised of transistors Q5 and Q6 wired across the main step-up transformer. These transistors are switched on in tandem to drive current through the two halves of the primary winding of transformer T2, independently.

Power diodes D2 and D3 are included to protect the power-stage transistors against reverse currents. Switching pulses from the drive transistors are transferred to the power stage via transistors Q3 and Q4, which serve as current amplifiers.

Resistor R10 is used to feed back the current to the current-sense monitor via pin 5. The current-sense logic monitors this feedback and triggers shutoff in event of either overload or power-stage failure.

The value of R10 is calculated as I_MAX = 200 mV/R10, where I_MAX is proportional to the power rating of the load, and 200 mV is the minimum required potential drop across R10 to trigger a shutdown by the current-sense logic.

The transformer T1 is connected to the standard mains supply and the rectified dc is fed to the shutdown pin (pin 10). This pin serves to turn off the LM3524 during the presence of the standard mains supply. If the mains supply fails, the bias on the shutdown pin is removed, thus starting the oscillator and hence the drive stages.

The power stages and transformer T2 must be appropriately rated for the required output power. The power transistors (Q3, Q4, Q5, and Q6) can be paralleled with similar devices for increased power-handling capacity. In addition, forced cooling can be used to achieve an even higher output power rating. However, for low- or medium-output power ratings, these transistors must be mounted on a large heat sink. Transformer T2 is a standard 12 V: 0:12 V to 230-240 V step-up winding, while T1 is a small 230-V to 12-V step-down transformer rated for 50 mA on the secondary windings. Additional filter and shaping circuitry can be added on the secondary winding of T2 to obtain a near sine-wave output. The RC network comprising R3 and C2 is included for compensation.

555 DC-AC Inverter

Parts List:
R1 = 10K
R2 = 100K
R3 = 100 ohm
R4 = 50K potmeter, Linear
C1,C2 = 0.1uF
C3 = 0.01uF
C4 = 2700uF
Q1 = TIP41A, NPN, or equivalent
Q2 = TIP42A, PNP, or equivalent
L1 = 1uH
T1 = Filament transformer, your choice

This DC-to-AC inverter schematic produces an AC output at line frequency and voltage. The 555 is configured as a low-frequency oscillator, tunable over the frequency range of 50 to 60 Hz by Frequency potentiometer R4.

The 555 feeds its output (amplified by Q1 and Q2) to the input of transformer T1, a reverse-connected filament transformer with the necessary step-up turns ratio. Capacitor C4 and coil L1 filter the input to T1, assuring that it is effectively a sine wave. Adjust the value of T1 to your voltage.

The output (in watts) is up to you by selecting different components.

Input voltage is anywhere from +5V to +15Volt DC, adjust the 2700uF cap's working voltage accordingly. Replacement types for Q1 are: TIP41B, TIP41C, NTE196, ECG196, etc. Replacement types for Q2 are: TIP42B, TIP42C, NTE197, ECG197, etc. Don't be afraid to use another type of similar specs, it's only a transistor... ;-)

Simple 40W inverter

Description

This is the schematic of a simple 40W , 12 to 220 V inverter.You don’t believe, this is simple and cheap and working for me for last 4 years.The heart of the circuit is a CD 4047 IC which is wired as an astable multi vibrator here.Resistance and Capacitance at pin 1&2 determines the out put frequency.Here it is set to 60Hz.Due to this a two 180 degree out of phase ,120 Hz , 50% dutycycle waveforms will appear at pin 10 & 11.These waves are amplified by the complementary symmetry amplifier made of transistors BC 337 & TIP 3055 to drive the out put transformer.Don’t get feared of the technical terms, just wire it on a all purpose PCB.It is simple and will work.Don’t worry about the transformer windings ,buy a 220-110-0 primary,12-0-12 secondary , <50w>

Circuit Diagram:

Tips :

First wire to oscillator part only.Then check out put Pin 10 &11 of CD4047 to obtain the required wave forms ( two 120Hz ,180 degree out of phase,50% duty cycle waves.

Then connect transistors ,transformer and load (25 W bulb for test).See it working!.

500W Mos-Fet Power Inverter from 12V to 110V/220V

500W Mos-Fet Power Inverter from 12V to 110V/220V

This circuit will provide a very stable "Square Wave" Output Voltage. Frequency of operation is determined by a pot and is normally set to 60 Hz. Various "off the shelf" transformers can be used. Or Custom wind your own FOR BEST RESULTS. Additional MosFets can be paralleled for higher power. It is recommended to Have a "Fuse" in the Power Line and to always have a "Load connected", while power is being applied. The Fuse should be rated at 32 volts and should be aproximately 10 Amps per 100 watts of output. The Power leads must be heavy enough wire to handle this High Current Draw!

Appropriate Heat Sinks Should be used on the RFP50N06 Fets. These Fets are rated at 50 Amps and 60 Volts. ** Other types of Mosfets can be substituted if you wish. The LT1013 offers better drive that the LM358, but its your choice. The Power transformer must be capable of handling the chosen wattage output. Also, Appropriate Heat Sinks are Necessary on the Mos-Fets. Using a rebuilt Microwave transformer as shown below, it should handle about 500 watts Maximum. It requires about 18 turn Center-Tapped on the primary. To handle 500 watts would require using a 5 AWG wire. Pretty Heavy Stuff, but so is the current draw at that power.

110VAC Inverter for Automobile

This circuit will allow you to operate small devices like laptop computers inside your automobile without an expensive automobile power supply. The circuit takes advantage of the fact that power transformers are linear devices and can be used to step up as well as step down. This is evident by the fact that the supply drives the secondary and the output is on the primary.

Warning: this supply produces dangerous and lethal voltages. Use extreme caution when testing this circuit. In addition, make sure the assembly is enclosed in a plastic case. Do not package this circuit in a metal or aluminum case!

The design depends on the windings ratio and the value of the car battery to produce an AC waveform of approximately 95 volts RMS. No filtering is performed on the secondary since the transformer blocks most of the sharp edges from the input waveform.

All of the devices (14013, 555, 14020, and 4049) should have their supply pins connected to the +12 supply. The nice thing about CMOS logic is that it will operate over a wide range of voltages. Before connecting the center tap of the transformer, adjust R3 until the signal on U5 pin 13 is 120Hz.

The 14013's are used to produce a 60Hz square wave with an accurate 50% duty cycle and to force the FET switches operate in a break-before-mate manner. The 4049's have enough drive capability to snap the FET's off and on very quickly.

12V To 220V 50Hz Inverter 50W by M706B1

Inverter 12V to 220V 100W by Transistor

This circuit power Inverter 100W, it easy and good ideas.

Circuit Inverter 12V to 220V 100W by Transistor


PCB Inverter 12V to 220V 100W by Transistor

12 Volt to 220 Volt Inverter 500W

This is circuit Inverter 12VDC to 220V 50Hz 500W. It easy to make and Low cost.

Automotive 12V to +-20V converter (for audio amplifier)

The limitation of car supply voltage (12V) forces to convert the voltages to higher in order to power audio amplifiers.

In fact the max audio power x speaker (with 4 ohm impedance) using 12V is (Vsupply+ - Vsupply-)^2/(8*impedance) 12^2/32 = 4.5Watts per channel, that is laughable...

For powering correctly an amplifier the best is to use a symmetric supply with a high voltage differential. for example +20 - -20 = 40Volts in fact 40^2/32 = 50 Watts per channel that is respectable.

This supply is intended for two channels with 50W max each (of course it depends on the amplifier used). Though it can be easily scaled up or the voltages changed to obtain different values.

click on image for higher resolution schematic

Overview - How it works

It is a classic push-pull design , taking care to obtain best symmetry (to avoid flux walking). Keep in mind that this circuit will adsorb many amperes (around 10A) so take care to reinforce power tracks with lots of solder and use heavy wires from the battery or the voltage will drop too much at the input.

The transformer must be designed to reduce skin effect, it can be done using several insulated magnet wire single wires soldered together but conducting separately. The regulation is done both by the transformer turn ratio and varying the duty cycle. In my case i used 5+5 , 10+10 turns obtaining a step up ratio of 2 (12->24) and down regulating the voltage to 20 via duty cycle dynamic adjust performed by the PWM controller TL494.

The step-up ratio has to be a little higher to overcome diode losses, winding resistance and so on and input voltage drop due to wire resistance from battery to converter.

Transformer design

The transformer must be of correct size in order to carry the power needed, on the net there are many charts showing the power in function of frequency and core size for a given topology. My transformer size is 33.5 mm lenght, 30.0 height and 13mm width with a cross section area of 1,25cm^2, good for powers around 150W at 50khz.

The windings , especially the primary must be heavy gauged, but instead of using a single wire it is better to use multiple wires in parallel each insulated from the other except at the ends. This will reduce resistance increase due to skin effect. The primary and secondary windings are center tapped, this means that you have to wind 5 turns, center tap and 5 windings again. The same goes for the secondary, 10 turns, center tap and 10 turns again.

The important thing is that the transformer MUST not have air gaps or the leakage inductance will throw spikes on the switches overheating them and giving a voltage higher than expected by turn ratio prediction, so if your voltage output (at fully duty cycle) is higher than Vin*N2/N1 - Vdrop diode, your transformer has gap (of course permit me saying you that you are BLIND if you miss it), and this is accompanied with a drastical efficiency reduction. Use non-gapped E cores or toroids (ferrite).

Output diodes, capacitors and filter inductor

For rectification i preferred to use shottky diodes since they have low forward voltage drop, and are incredibly fast. I used the cheap 1N5822, the best alternative for low voltage converters (3A for current capability).

The output capacitors are 4700uF 25V, not very big, since at high frequency the voltage ripple is most due to internal cap ESR fortunately general purpose lytics have enough low esr for a small ripple (some tens of millivolts). Also at high duty cycle they are feed almost with pure DC, giving small ripple. The filter inductor on the secondary centertap furter increases the ripple and helps the regulation in asymmetrical transients

Power switch and driving

I used d2pak 70V 80A 0.004 ohms ultrafets (Fairchind semiconductor), very expensive and hard to find. In principle any fet will work, but the lower the on-resistance, the lower the on-state conduction losses, the lower the heat produced on the fets, the higher efficiency and smaller the heatsinks needed. With this fets i am able to run the fets with small heatsinks and without fan at full rated power (100W) with an efficiency of 82% and perceptible heating and with small heating at 120W (some degrees) (the core starts to saturate and the efficiency is a bit lower, around 75%)

Try to use the lowest resistance mosfet you can put your dirty hand :-) on or the efficiency will be lower than rated and you will need even a small fan. The fet driver i used is the TPS2811P, from Texas instruments, rated for 2A peak and 200ns. Is important that the gate drive is optimized for minimal inductance or the switching losses will be higher and you risk noise coupling from other sources. Personally i think that twisted pair wires (gate and ground/source) are the best to keep the inductance small. Place the gate drive resistor near the Mosfet, not near the IC.

Controller

I used the trusty TL494 PWM controller with frequency set at around 40-60 Khz adjustable with a potentiometer. I also implemented the soft start (to reduce powerup transients). The adjust potentiometer (feedback) must be set to obtain the desired voltage. The output signals is designed with two pull-up resistors on the collector of the PWM chip output transistor pulling them to ground each cycle alternatively. This signal is sent to the dual inverting MOSFET driver (TPS2811P) obtaining the correct waveform.

Power and filtering

How i said before the power tracks must be heavy gauged or you will scarify regulation (since it depends of transformer step up ratio and input voltage) and efficiency too. Don't forget to place a 10A (or 15A) fuse on the input because the car batteries can supply very high currents in case of shorts and this will save you face from a mosfet explosion in case of failture or short, remember to place a fuse also on the battery side to increase the safety (accidental shorts->fire, battery explosion, firemen, police and lawyers around). Input filtering is important, use at least 20000uF 16V in capacitors, a filter inductor would be useful too (heavygauged) but i decided to leave it..

Final considerations

This supply given me up to 85% efficiency (sometimes even 90% at some loads) with an input of 12V because i observed all these tricks to keep it functional and efficient. An o-scope would be useful, to watch the ripple and gate signals (watching for overshoots), but if you follow these guidelines you will avoid these problems.

The cross regulation is good but keep in mind that only the positive output is fully regulated, and the negative only follows it. Place a small load between the negative rail and ground (a 3mm led with a 4.7Kohm resistor) to avoid the negative rail getting lower then -20V. If the load is asymmetric you can have two cases:

-More load on positive rail-> no problems, the negative rail can go lower than -20V, but it is not a real issue for an audio amplifier.

-More load on negative rail-> voltage drop on negative rail (to ground) especially if the load is only on the negative rail.

Fortunately audio amplifiers are quite symmetrical as a load, and the output filter inductor/capacitors helps to maintain the regulation good during asymmetrical transients (Basses)

ATTENTION

Keep in mind that THIS IS NOT A PROJECT FOR A BEGINNER, IT CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS IN CASE OF PROBLEMS, NEVER BRIDGE, BYPASS OR AVOID FUSES THESE WILL SAVE YOUR BACK FROM FIRE RISK.

FOR FIRST TESTING USE A SMALL 12V power supply and use resistors as load monitoring switches heat and current consumption (and output) and try to determine efficiency, if it is higher then 70-75% you are set, it is enough. Adjust the frequency for best compromise between power and switching losses, skin effect and hysteresis losses

Bill Of Materials
=================
Design: 12V to 20V 100W DC-DC conv
Doc. no.: 1
Revision: 3
Author: Jonathan Filippi
Created: 29/04/05
Modified: 18/05/05

Parts List
--- --------- -----
Resistors
---------
2 R1,R2 = 10
4 R3,R4,R6,R7 = 1k
1 R5 = 22k
1 R8 = 4.7k
1 R9 = 100k

Capacitors
----------
2 C1,C2 = 10000uF
2 C3,C6 = 47u
1 C4 = 10u
3 C5,C7,C14 = 100n
2 C8,C9 = 4700u
1 C12 = 1n
1 C13 = 2.2u

Integrated Circuits
-------------------
1 U1 = TL494
1 U2 = TPS2811P

Transistors
-----------
2 Q1,Q2 = FDB045AN

Diodes
------
4 D1-D4 = 1N5822
1 D5 = 1N4148

Miscellaneous
-------------
1 FU1 = 10A
1 L1 = 10u
1 L2 = FERRITE BEAD
1 RV1 = 2.2k
1 RV2 = 24k
1 T1 = TRAN-3P3S

Inverter 100W by IC 4047 + 2N3055

This circuit Inverter input 12V (battery 12V) to out 220V 50HZ, Easy circuit because less component to use. It use IC 4047 (oscillator 50HZ) and Power Transistor 2N3055 x 2 ,OUTPUT Power 100W.

Circuit Inverter 100W by IC 4047 + 2N3055

PCB Inverter 100W by IC 4047 + 2N3055

DC12V to DC50V converter (for car)

This circuit for Car audio input battery 12V to 50VDC, It use transistor and IC TL072.

Circuit DC12V to DC50V converter (for car)

PCB DC12V to DC50V converter (for car)

500W low cost 12V to 220V inverter

Using this circuit you can convert the 12V dc in to the 220V Ac. In this circuit 4047 is use to generate the square wave of 50hz and amplify the current and then amplify the voltage by using the step transformer.

Attention: This Circuit is using high voltage that is lethal. Please take appropriate precautions

Modified Schematic - click on image for higher resolution

Original Schematic - click on image for higher resolution

How to calculate transformer rating

The basic formula is P=VI and between input output of the transformer we have Power input = Power output

For example if we want a 220W output at 220V then we need 1A at the output. Then at the input we must have at least 18.3V at 12V because: 12V*18.3 = 220v*1

So you have to wind the step up transformer 12v to 220v but input winding must be capable to bear 20A.

12 Volt DC to 120 Volt AC Inverter

Ever needed a low power 120volt AC power source for your car, van or truck? Well this circuit should do the trick for you. It will supply 15 watts of AC power to a device. It should power lamps, shavers, small stereos and small appliances. If you draw to much power the circuit will shut down all by itself. The output of this circuit is a square wave so there may be some noticeable hum on audio units plugged into it.

To reduce some of the hum increase the value of the output capacitor which is at .47uf now. That transistor in the circuit are high power PNP transistors. Radio Shack part number 276-2025 are good ones to use or TIP32. The transformer is a 24 volt 2 amp center tapped secondary Radio Shack part number 273-1512 or equivalent.

Voltage Inverter 2

This simple and inexpensive circuit can produce a dual (positive and negative) voltage from a single supply input. It is therefore extremely useful for powering opamp and other circuits that require a dual voltage from a single battery. The circuit will operate at an input voltage from around 5V to 20V and produce a output from +-2.5V to +-10V.

Schematic
Parts

R1 ----- 1M Linear Pot
C1,C2 ----- 15uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
U1 ----- LM380 Audio Amp Chip
MISC ----- Heatsink For U1, Binding Posts (For Input/Output), Wire, Board


Notes

1. U1 dissipates around 1W and will therefore require a heatsink.

2. R1 is used to equalize the outputs. The first time you use the circuit, it should be set to mid range and then adjusted with the aid of a voltmeter. Measure each output while adjusting. The circuit is calibrated when both outputs read the same voltage (either positive or negative).

Voltage Inverter

This simple circuit is a good solution to the powering a dual supply op amp from a single battery problem. The circuit simply takes a positive voltage and inverts it. It uses only one 555 timer and a few other passive components, so it doesn't add much in the way of size and cost to a project.

Schematic
Parts

R1 ---- 24K 1/4 Watt Resistor
R2 ---- 56K 1/4 Watt Resistor

C1 ---- 3300pF 25V Ceramic Capacitor
C2 ---- 47uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3 ---- 10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor

D1, D2 ---- 1N4148 Silicon Diode
U1 ---- 555 Timer
MISC ---- Wire, Board

Notes

1. V+ can be anywhere from 4 to 16V. -V is one volt less than V+. So for -12V output, use +13V input. The maximum current output of the circuit is about 280mA, more than enough for a few op amps.

2. For better regulation, a 79LOxx series regulator can be used.

3. A zener diode may also be used to regualte the output voltage.

120 VAC Inverter

Have you ever wanted to run a TV, stereo or other appliance while on the road or camping? Well, this inverter should solve that problem. It takes 12 VDC and steps it up to 120 VAC. The wattage depends on which tansistors you use for Q1 and Q2, as well as how "big" a transformer you use for T1. The inverter can be constructed to supply anywhere from 1 to 1000 (1 KW) watts.

Schematic
Parts:
C1, C2 ---- 68 uf, 25 V Tantalum Capacitor
R1, R2 ---- 10 Ohm, 5 Watt Resistor
R3, R4 ---- 180 Ohm, 1 Watt Resistor
D1, D2 ---- HEP 154 Silicon Diode

Q1, Q2 ---- 2N3055 NPN Transistor (see "Notes")
T1 ---- 24V, Center Tapped Transformer (see "Notes")
MISC ---- Wire, Case, Receptical (For Output)


Notes:

1. Q1 and Q2, as well as T1, determine how much wattage the inverter can supply. With Q1,Q2=2N3055 and T1= 15 A, the inverter can supply about 300 watts. Larger transformers and more powerful transistors can be substituted for T1, Q1 and Q2 for more power.

2. The easiest and least expensive way to get a large T1 is to re-wind an old microwave transformer. These transformers are rated at about 1KW and are perfect. Go to a local TV repair shop and dig through the dumpster until you get the largest microwave you can find. The bigger the microwave the bigger transformer. Remove the transformer, being careful not to touch the large high voltage capacitor that might still be charged. If you want, you can test the transformer, but they are usually still good. Now, remove the old 2000 V secondary, being careful not to damage the primary. Leave the primary in tact. Now, wind on 12 turns of wire, twist a loop (center tap), and wind on 12 more turns. The guage of the wire will depend on how much current you plan to have the transformer supply. Enamel covered magnet wire works great for this. Now secure the windings with tape. Thats all there is to it. Remember to use high current transistors for Q1 and Q2. The 2N3055's in the parts list can only handle 15 amps each.

3. Remember, when operating at high wattages, this circuit draws huge amounts of current. Don't let your battery go dead :-).

4. Since this project produces 120 VAC, you must include a fuse and build the project in a case.

5. You must use tantalum capacitors for C1 and C2. Regular electrolytics will overheat and explode. And yes, 68uF is the correct value. There are no substitutions.

6. This circuit can be tricky to get going. Differences in transformers, transistors, parts substitutions or anything else not on this page may cause it to not function.